Onward to Heidelberg.  A long drive- but still shorter because I was driving.... (hey- I learned in NYC!) lots of trucks from all over Europe and, of course, the autobahn drivers! But, we make it in five hours- alive and unscathed.  What a great city.  Home of the second oldest university in Europe.  A youthful joie de vivre abounds.  We head to the H&M (go Madonna!!) and buy some really cool Euro items.  At last, we fit in...sort of.... Marriott is good- we head to the roof top patio on the River Neckar and watch the skullers and rowers while enjoying a radler (beer and 7-up) and a weiss wine. Life is good... We head for for pizza- Casa something...great pizza- a recommendation of a college student we approach along the way.  City is beautiful at night.  Castle is lit nicely and seduces one into thinking about what it must have been like in its heyday...that would be the 11th century for you inquiring minds.  Find a great antique store and score a beautiful watercolor.  Wisteria are everywhere..  We spend two days here and love every minute of it.  Highly recommend this city to anyone who wants to get a view of a cosmopolitan small city that is ensconced in rich Franconian history.